Sunday, April 8, 2007

New Ingredient of the Week

In my routine cooking-magazine-reading, I’ve recently come across a great number of articles on Brussels sprouts. I’ve never had them before (at least to my knowledge—who knows, maybe my parents fed them to me so long ago that I don’t remember), so I was inclined to fiddle with them and see if they would be a candidate for inclusion in my regular repertoire. I mentioned my desire to venture into Brussels sprouts to Jim one evening, and he was not in full support of the idea. “They’re gross”, he said; “they smell awful when they cook, and they don’t taste much better”. Vegetable freak that I am, I couldn’t face the idea that a vegetable could be inherently disgusting. This must be a mistake; whoever served them to you must not have cooked them right. Rule #1 of the house: Don’t taunt the “chef” and don’t challenge the “chef”. What happens if you do? You get to eat Brussels sprouts.

Of course, the goal here was not to inflict Brussels sprouts-torture; I was now on a mission to prove to Jim that he did not hate this vegetable. Years ago, he hated beans; would never eat them. Now he loves beans (see, you can change a man…just kidding—I had to say it). So maybe Brussels sprouts are next—nothing is impossible… Incidentally, my food tastes have changed substantially as well—I hated mustard and vinegar all of my life and in the past two years have come to love them. So, we change and grow together; that’s what it’s all about, right?

Back to the food…since I was forcing Brussels sprouts on him, I wanted to make a main dish that was sure to be a hit. I had seen a recipe in Eating Well magazine for a Mahi-mahi crusted with horseradish infused potatoes. We don’t eat white potatoes too often, so that would be a treat (I usually opt for sweet potatoes because they have so much flavor—and therefore don’t beg for too much adornment—and also because they’re packed with nutrients and fiber). Also, we both go nuts over the pungent taste of horseradish, so that seemed likely to be a winner. And I love fish, so we all win. Since I followed their recipe fairly closely (with the exception of using fresh potatoes that I had on hand, instead of pre-shredded ones from the store), I won’t detail the recipe here. The beauty is that Eating Well publishes their recipes on their website for free; so if you have the urge to make it, just go to their website and look it up. And you should, because it was amazing. The tang of the horseradish paired so well with the sweet flesh of the fish, making it seem even sweeter and more succulent than I remember Mahi-mahi as being.

In preparation for Brussels sprouts night on Saturday, I spent the week researching various issues related to this vegetable. First, how and what do you buy? Based on what I read, it seemed that baby Brussels sprouts were the ticket; many sources claimed that they were more delicately flavored. Plus, that’s mostly what I’ve seen as I’ve wandered through the produce section with wide-eyes. So baby Brussels sprouts it is (luckily when we went to the store that day, they were there—too often, I’ll see something at the store everyday and not buy it, and the one time I need it they’re out of it).

The next issue to tackle was how to prep and cook them. I looked to Cooks’ Illustrated magazine first; this is often the first place I turn to for general guidance on an ingredient or cooking process, because of their scientific approach and relentless pursuit of perfection (which is very close to my heart). They recommended steaming the sprouts, and claimed that the step of cutting a small x into the bottom of each one was unnecessary. I had read in other places that you’re supposed to cut an x into the bottom to ensure that the sprout would cook evenly; apparently one pitfall with these is overcooking (that’s when they end up not tasting good, apparently), so if you have to overcook part of the sprout to get the other part done there could be trouble. But CI claimed that this was unnecessary; I took their information and moved on to additional research. I mined the internet mostly, in search of other cooking techniques. Roasting seemed to be popular; many sources claimed that roasting brought out the sweet flavor of the sprouts (which roasting will often do, even for something as bitter as eggplant). This appealed to me because roasting is generally my preferred method of vegetable preparation. Roasting it is. And just to be safe, I’ll go ahead and cut those x’s in the bottom; I have one chance here to prove that Brussels sprouts are not gross, so there will be no room for error here. So, you can see me below, as I peel the outer leaves off of each Brussels sprout and cut a small x in the bottom (ok, so it’s a little labor intensive).
We sampled a few fine beers as I cooked, starting out with one of my favorites: J.W. Lees’ Harvest Ale, Aged in Calvados Casks. The regular J.W. Lees’ Harvest ale (minus the Calvados casks) is an English Barleywine, a style of beer that is typically high in alcohol and very malty, often with a thick mouthfeel (not to be confused with American barleywines, which are also high in alcohol, but which are often more heavily hopped and are therefore not as malty). It was a bit too cold when we took it out of the refrigerator, so we let our glasses warm a bit on the countertop; it’s a shame to drink a beer like this too cold, because you really won’t taste it. It had a fruity aroma, with an clear apple essence (Calvados is an apple brandy, just in case that’s not common knowledge). The alcohol was apparent in the nose, but considering that this beer clocks in at 11.5% ABV, I guess that shouldn’t come as too much of a shock. In mouthfeel, it was syrupy and thick—as would be expected from the style. The taste was definitely sweet, leaving almost a sugary feeling on the lips. (But I’m such a nut for anything sweet so you know I’m going to dig that.) Overall, it was very drinkable (dangerously so at 11.5% ABV, and at $6.99 for 9.3 fluid ounces—this was a splurge, especially for a cheap chick like myself), and the alcohol was not nearly as apparent in the taste as it was on the nose. In the end, it was a terrific tummy-warmer (first of the night, no food in the belly yet), with a satisfying malty-sweetness and the subtle flavors of apple and brandy.
Now that I had a treat to sip on, I could concentrate on the flavoring for the Brussels sprouts. Since I was roasting them, this seemed like familiar territory; I dressed them in a fashion similar to most roasted veggies that I cook. I tossed them in a roasting pan with diced shallot, finely diced carrot, garlic (how much? I don’t know—lots?), chicken broth, marsala wine and dried thyme. I minced some parsley and sliced green onions to add to them at or near the end of cooking (dried herbs and the beginning, fresh herbs at the end—a great general rule of thumb for cooking). Just in case Jim was right and these things were not palatable, I also prepared a separate roasted vegetable medley, so that we would not be without a veggie with our dinner (now that would be a disaster). This preparation was pretty standard as well: minced garlic, the veggie assortment (cremini mushrooms, asparagus, carrot, onion), tossed with some dried tarragon, sherry wine and a dash of chicken broth. These baked alongside the Brussels sprouts in a 400 degree oven. For how long? Until they were done. (Read: um, I don’t remember—I’m writing this three weeks after the fact from notes written three days after I cooked it; I’ve been a little distracted, new job and all).
The next beer that we tasted was the Old Horizontal from Victory Brewing Co. This is an American barleywine, which is similar to the English style in the ABV range (this one landed at 11%), but you can expect it to have a more clear hop presence. However, since there are a ton of malts involved, beers in this style generally do not taste bitter despite the high bitterness rating that many of them have. What you really end up with is a great balance of hops and malts, such that you can really enjoy the hop flavor and not spend the evening puckering your lips because the beer you’re drinking is akin to sucking on a lemon. (That’s my rant—can you tell I’m not into aggressively-hopped, ultra bitter tasting beers? I’m a malt gal.). The Old Horizontal had a dark amber color, and a hoppy aroma. The hops came through on the flavor, but it was a fine balance with the sweet malts. A great example of the American barleywine style; definitely prime for a repeat.

I’m pretty predicable when it comes to meal planning. Each meal generally has a protein, a grain and a ton of veggies (even one-dish meals will usually contain all three components). I had the protein and veggies covered. For the grain in our meal, I prepared a mushroom wild rice. I steeped dried wild mushrooms in hot water for about 30 minutes. I drained them, reserving their liquid to be used as the cooking liquid for the rice. I sautéed some onion, carrot and celery until soft. I then added a load of minced garlic, a healthy splash of sherry wine and some dried thyme. I then added some sliced fresh cremini mushrooms, and the re-hydrated wild mushrooms (chopped once they were cool enough to handle) and sautéed until the fresh mushrooms began to soften. I then added 2/3 cup of wild rice and a couple of tablespoons of brown basmati rice (rinsed in cold water before being added, of course), and sautéed for an additional minute. I added the liquid from the mushroom-soak, threw the top on and let it rip. Wild rice takes a bit of time; about 50 minutes until it’s ready to eat.

That means that we have time for one more beer before dinner (take heart, we’re splitting single bottles here). The third victim was the Czar by Avery brewing company. This is a Russian Imperial Stout, tipping the scales at 11.04% ABV. This is one of our favorite styles of beer, and we actually brewed a batch of Russian Imperial Stout last fall (we’ve still got about 2-3 cases in our basement). Beers in this style generally amount to super-stouts. They are higher in alcohol than your standard English stout and will typically have a ton of roasted flavor (and if you’re lucky, some chocolate or coffee notes). This poured an intense dark color (“There’s none more blacker”, said Jim—stolen from “This is Spinal Tap”). There was a slight hop aroma, but you mostly sensed a roasted malt smell. The taste was divine: a clear chocolate note, with hints of coffee. Not as much of a roasted flavor as you might expect. It was very nicely balanced, and a little too easy to drink considering the level of alcohol. This particular selection has been one of our favorites of late, when we can get it. We’ve had the pleasure of enjoying some other great Russian Imperial Stouts: Victory’s Storm King, Stone’s Russian Imperial Stout, and the Old Heathen by Weyerbacher Brewing…and I know I’m forgetting something (I’ll update later if it comes to me). You can see the Czar pictured below with the finished fish (and me trying to hide from the camera, but doing a really poor job of it).
What was the verdict on the Brussels sprouts? He thought they were great. I win! He said that he would definitely eat them again, but only if I made them (what a brownnose :-)). So, I emerged victorious from the Brussels sprouts challenge…what to try next?